Canada

Lake Louise

DEN to YYC (Calgary) is an easy 2.5hr flight, and YYC reminded us of a smaller version of Denver. The airport is easy to navigate, only requiring a quick Customs and Immigration check before you can be on your way.

Lake Louise doesn’t have much in the way of restaurants, or grocery stores (there’s a small market in the Lake Louise townsite, but Banff definitely has better options). If you’re interested in renting gear, Banff also has a great rental shop - Snowtips-Bactrax where we rented bear spray and hiking poles.

So, we stopped first in Banff for the groceries and rental gear, and then enjoyed the 40 minute drive from Banff to Lake Louise. Our lodging was at the Paradise Lodge and Bungalows, which we thought was really cute and functional!


Paradise Lodge’s location (on the road between the townsite and the lake itself) is very convenient and makes it really easy to get an early start and get parking at the lake if you’re so inclined. Everything we read indicated that parking at Lake Louise is full by sunrise, but we arrived at about 6:45am (a few minutes past sunrise for this time of year) and there were still plenty of open parking spots available.

The views of Lake Louise that first morning just after sunrise were a highlight for us, and despite some crowds, we didn’t have any trouble getting clear photographs, or having someone take some pics of us without anyone else in the shot!

After researching trail options from Lake Louise, we decided on a big loop - starting with the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail from Lake Louise, the Big Beehive, the Lake Agnes Tea House, and then back to Lake Louise. Here is the link for the description on AllTrails: “Plain of Six Glaciers - Big Beehive - Lake Agnes Tea House”.

We’d definitely recommend this loop since the views were stunning. We thought it was well worth the extra mileage to go past the Plain of Six Glaciers Tea House and get to the glacier viewpoint! Also, be ready for some tough switch-backs on the way up to the Big Beehive (from whichever direction you decide to approach it from). If you start really early in the morning, you may get to the Plain of Six Glaciers Tea House before it opens (9am, I believe). That said, it will certainly be less crowded than the Lake Agnes Tea House which was mobbed, so if you need to stop for food, that might be the better option. We were overall unimpressed with the menu at any of the tea houses - (the Plain of Six Glaciers tea house basically had Peanut Butter and Jelly sandwiches, some pastries, and coffee + tea), so we didn’t stop for any bites.

Moraine Lake is another highlight in the Lake Louise area, but due to prior years of overcrowding on the road, access to the lake is now solely permitted via an approved transportation shuttle (or if you have a reservation at the Moraine Lake Lodge).

Some of these transportation shuttles include: Ten Peaks, Mountain Park, Fairview, and Moraine Lake Bus Co - but these options will cost between $35 and $75 per adult (depending on the service and whether you’re trying to catch sunrise which is more expensive).

If you’re planning ahead and have a vehicle available, we would recommend trying to reserve a seat with the Parks Canada Shuttle which picks up and drops off at the Lake Louise Ski Area (aka Park and Ride). This shuttle costs $8 per adult, and runs about every 20 minutes or so throughout the day. Reservations opened up for booking tickets on April 18th in 2024 (not sure if it’s the same date every year), and additional seats are available on a rolling basis starting at 8am MDT 2 days prior to the departure date.

I was able to set a calendar reminder for April 18th and book tickets for us after waiting in a short queue (much like booking many concert tickets these days).

A few days before our trip, we received an email confirmation of our tickets with instructions and a barcode. And the morning we arrived, parking was easy and the queuing process was very clearly marked for the Parks Canada shuttles (as well as other private shuttles mentioned above) in the Lake Louise ski area parking lot.

As with our time at Lake Louise, we hung out at Moraine Lake for a while, enjoying the majestic views before heading out on our hike up Sentinel Pass. Another beautiful hike with incredible views!

While we opted to stay 3 nights in the Lake Louise area, many visitors seemed to use Banff as their “base”, and opted to drive (or book a tour that would drive them) the 40 minutes to Lake Louise. We liked staying there since it allowed us to more easily have early-morning starts, but if you find yourself in Banff, Lake Louise is 100% worth a visit!

Revelstoke

Sitting about 2.5hrs west of Lake Louise, and about 3,600ft lower in elevation is the town of Revelstoke whose catch phrase is “Small Town Charm. Big Mountain Adventure”. Despite its lower elevation, it is probably most well-known for its downhill skiing at Mt. Revelstoke Resort (currently on the 24/25 Ikon Ski Pass). With only 4 ski lifts (including a 2-part gondola) and 1 magic carpet, it’s a small resort with (supposedly) big, mostly un-groomed terrain. Honestly, it’s on our bucket list of places to ski - but we figured we could check it out first in the summertime!

During the summer months, Revy (as the locals call it), is known for Mountain Biking. Both cross-country and downhill is readily available and we tried both thanks to the help of local bike shop Wandering Wheels. These guys hooked us up with great cross-country rental bikes (including helmets) and suggested we ride Frisby Ridge which was fantastic, though Kristina struggled with the 2,300ft vertical climb.


The next day, they swapped out our cross-country bikes for downhill ones (and added full face helmets and knee pads), and we went up to Revelstoke Mountain Resort and rode downhill for the day. Epic, is the word that comes to mind to describe this downhill mountain bike park!

We would highly recommend renting from Wandering Wheels (or booking a guided tour with them), and checking out some of the local trails.

The city of Revelstoke was founded in the 1880’s and supported throughout the years by the Canadian Pacific Railroad, which still sends multiple trains through town daily. Its population of around 9,000 residents makes it feel quite a bit bigger than our local favorite mountain town of Crested Butte, CO. It has nightly live music in the heart of downtown during the summer, and lots of bars and restaurants to support locals and tourists alike. The food was nothing to write home about, though we had two decent meals out, and GREAT cocktails at Monashee Distillery!

Our lodging was a beautiful 2-bedroom unit in Basecamp Suites which had great views of both Revelstoke Mountain and out toward Frisby Peak. Note this is the "Suites", not Basecamp "Resorts", which is further outside of town near the river. This location is RIGHT in the heart of downtown - you can open your sliding door to hear the nightly music 1 block away. With doors and windows closed, this place was nice and quite. A/C worked perfectly and everything in the unit is new. The kitchen is very well stocked for preparing meals. Parking was easy and we loved being able to walk across the street in the morning for a pastry & specialty coffee at Dose, or easily stroll back to the unit after drinks/dinner. The hot tub wasn't open yet (still under construction) in August and the beds and linens were SUPER comfortable.

For anyone thinking of staying here, our one note of caution would be that there is only 1 small hallway closet with very few hangers and no shelves. There are no dressers or shelving in the rooms for clothing. One bedroom is fairly small, so it would be tough to fit suitcases/gear in there. The other bedroom (shown below) has a little room beyond the foot of the bed, but otherwise, I'm not sure where a lot of "stuff" would go.

Banff

Banff was exceptionally crowded (mid-August), and very touristy. People waited in line for photos of the “Banff” sign, waited in line to access restaurants, waited in line for the Gondola, and waited in line to board town busses because parking in town is exceptionally difficult.


Despite the crowds, Banff does have some wonderful nature surrounding it, which we got out to explore a little. On one of our free mornings, we drove just 15 min from Banff out to Lake Minnewanka (and though we found parking, by the time we left, people were waiting for spots or parking much further back down the entrance road) and took a nice 10.6 mile, 1,000 ft. elevation hike out along the edge of the lake. Check out Lake Minnewanka Lakeside Trail for details. We heard the Lake Minnewanka boat tour (prices range, but at the time was about $80CA per adult) is supposed to be fun, but opted for the hike instead.

And despite what we view as excessive cost ($87CA for a gondola ride?!), we thoroughly enjoyed our time at the top of the Banff Gondola and we were glad we decided to do it! The ticket included a bus pass to/from the base of the gondola which was nice (we just showed the bus driver our tickets and they allowed us on).

As a quick tip - the bus coming from town stops at the Hot Springs first, then the Gondola Base, before heading back into town. If the base of the Gondola has a huge line when you’re done with your experience, try walking over to the Hot Springs bus stop (maybe 200meters away) and see if that line is shorter - you’ll get on the bus before the guests at the base of the Gondola.

Last but not least, we enjoyed the Cascade Amphitheatre Trail, which we had heard about from chatting with some local Calgary gentlemen during one of our hikes in Lake Louise. They highly recommended it, but gave us fair warning - it’s only 9 miles out-and-back, but close to 3k feet of elevation. Coming to the “Amphitheatre” (end of a valley with high cliff walls surrounding you), was beautiful, and the echoes from our yells were reverberated multiple times.

Getting there was an easy 13 minute drive from Banff, and free/easy parking was right at Mt. Norquay ski resort. Most of the trail was shaded and though beautiful, didn’t have open views until the end. Here are some pics from the “Amphitheatre”.

Summary

Canada was beautiful, as expected! We got lucky as far as smoke - every summer seems to bring heavy smoke from fires both in Canada and in the western part of the US - but we only had 2 days in Revelstoke where the smoke was noticeable. We would recommend paying attention to this as your visit gets closer, and booking refundable options where possible.

Lake Louise (both the lake itself as well as nearby Moraine Lake) was probably the most scenic area we visited and while the parking/shuttle infrastructure was well documented and organized, it was stressful trying to make sure we got parking and/or shuttle tickets for the days we wanted.

Revelstoke was great and we will definitely go back during the winter one day. The town isn’t super cute architecturally, but the people were very friendly and the restaurants/bars were plentiful.

Finally Banff (as mentioned above) was SUPER touristy. Our recommendation would be to stay 20 minutes south in Canmore and visit Banff only for specific meals or activities. Driving through Canmore on our way out, we both wished we had stayed there instead. The downtown area is very charming and looks much more low-key than Banff.



 “In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks.”

– John Muir